Discus Diet In The Wild
- Discus diet in the wild ocean
- Discus diet in the wild things
- The Dish on Discus - PetGuide
- Discus diet in the wild flower
- Discus diet in the wild bunch
Bloodworm is strictly a NO-NO as most of the problem tend to start here. Artemia, earthworm, tetra prima, flakes, beefheart are some of the food they will readily accept. 2 – Water: Heckel are usually kept in a very low ph preferably around the ph 6 mark, while I have kept others at a ph of between 6. 8-7. 2 with no problem. We all know that young discus need their water to be changed frequently to ensure that they grow big and are not stunted. Unlike domestic fish, most of the imported wild discus are above 4. 5″ and hence the probability that the fish getting stunted is very low. Hence, changing water everyday does not really have the desired affect. I prefer to do large water changes of upto 50% once a week. Obviously, I have two massive external filters and one large internal filter in my tank that houses the wild fish. 3 – Temperature: Wild discus can survive at much lower temp than their domestic counterparts, they prefer to be kept at 86F(30C) although they can be happy at 82F(28C).
Discus diet in the wild ocean
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It's important to remember that discus are cichlids, and like most cichlids, they are territorial and require a good balance of tank mates to create their hierarchy and minimize aggression among each other. Discus can be kept with other tank mates who will not compete them for food, as discus are slow moving fish that like to graze the tank for their meals. Their tank mates shouldn't be excitable, energetic fish. Typically, tetras, such as cardinals or rummy nose, sterbai corys, or German blue rams, are chosen to live alongside the discus. When choosing tank mates, it is important that all stock are capable of tolerating the higher temperatures (82-86 degrees F) required by discus. Oxygen, Water and Food Because they like to be in higher temperature water, oxygenation is key. The higher the temperature, the less oxygen content will be in the water column. This means you'll need a surface agitator, bubble wand, or sponge filter to provide discus with oxygen. Related: Take a Walk On the Wild Side of Bettas Water parameters for discus fish are simple.
Discus diet in the wild things
While they are not a fish for a beginner, they can be kept by someone who fully understands basic fish husbandry. Knowing the nitrogen cycle, understanding filtration, stocking levels, and basic diet and needs will be sufficient to get your feet wet with these beautiful fish. Jose Garcia, who has been keeping discus for nearly a decade advises: "Discus today are generally not as delicate as their reputation suggests. If you have an understanding of the nitrogen cycle, practice good husbandry, have a solid filter maintenance program in place, are willing to do regular water changes, and pick good stock from the start, then you can very likely be a successful discus keeper. " Summer Davis is the mom of three kids, four dogs, and several tanks of fish. She boasts a passion for all animals, whether they are in the water or on land. This fish aficionado has kept many different species in her time, but holds a special place in her heart for wild and domestic bettas. When she's not talking about fish, Summer "spins" her extra time as the director of a baton twirling organization.
The Dish on Discus - PetGuide
- Discus diet in the wild
- Discus diet in the wilderness
- Discus diet in the wild area
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- Wild Discus Care – Discus Fish For Sale | Discus Fish | DiscusGuy
- Discus diet in the wild west
5. In some areas the pH level can be as low as 4! As mentioned above constant movement of fresh oxygen rich water creates the optimal water conditions for Discus health. Water is also naturally soft, meaning, very few dissolved solids are found in the water. Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) are the minerals found in water in parts per million. A variety of minerals can be found in water depending on region. The fewer dissolved solids the lower the conductivity of the water or micro-Siemens. Replicating low TDS water is usually done when wanting to breed Discus and is accomplished by using an RO System. Although Discus will breed in several different water conditions, softer water helps improve the fertilization of the eggs and fry yield sizes. Several reasons can explain the waters natural softness including the immense rain forests and rain. Most experienced hobbyist use RO systems to produce soft water in order to replicate the conditions found in nature. Wild Discus Environment In the wild Discus can be found along the shores where roots from the rain forest trees are strongly rooted into the Amazon river.
Discus diet in the wild flower
Discus tend to congregate near fallen trees, known as "galhadas", along the shore. They prefer quiet water and are rarely found in areas where there is strong current or wave action. Discus Water Requirements Discus prefer warm, soft, acidic water. pH should be between 6. 0 and 7. 0, with hardness between 1° and 4° dKH (18 to 70 ppm). Temperature should be kept between 82° and 86° F, although wild Heckel discus prefer water near 90° F. Use an Aqueon Aquarium Heater to maintain proper water temperature. While captive bred discus can be kept in dechlorinated tap water, reverse osmosis or deionized water supplemented with Aqueon Water Renewal will provide the best conditions. When purchasing discus, always ask about the water chemistry they were raised in. Discus require pristine water quality, and weekly water changes of 10% to 25% using an Aqueon Aquarium Water Changer or Siphon Vacuum Gravel Cleaner are highly recommended. Don't forget to treat tap water with Aqueon Water Conditioner before refilling your aquarium!
All of these fish tolerate the high temperatures and low pH/hardness required by discus. What do Discus Eat? In nature, discus eat a considerable amount of plant material and detritus, but also forage along the bottom looking for worms and small crustaceans. They are omnivores and will thrive on Aqueon Tropical Flakes, Color Flakes, Spirulina flakes, Tropical Granules, Algae Rounds and Shrimp Pellets. Frozen and live foods should also be fed as treats or to help induce spawning. Some hobbyists and breeders feed their discus beef heart, and while it is not harmful, it is certainly not a natural food for discus. For best results, rotate their diet daily and feed only what they can consume in 2 to 3 minutes, once or twice a day. Discus Breeding Level – Difficult Captive bred discus will pair up and spawn relatively easily, but young, inexperienced parents may eat their eggs the first few times, particularly if other fish are present. After hatching, the young feed on heavy body mucus secreted by the parents for a few days until they begin to free-swim.
Discus diet in the wild bunch
Treatment can be further divided into phases. The fish is treated with anti-fungus, external parasite followed by internal parasite. This might take upto 2 weeks to administer and at this stage the fish would have more or less settled in the new environment. Third stage – This is the stage that most hobbyists tend to ignore. When these fish are bought from the retailer, it is advisable for the hobbyist to keep them in quarantine for another 4-5 weeks prior to adding them to the existing tank. I would strongly advise not to mix domestic and wild strains immediately. 5 – Disease: There are mainly two common diseases that wild discus will encounter. Among them internal parasites/worms are very common. 'Prevention is better than cure'. It is advisable to feed them with a good dewormer mixed in their food(check if they can be mixed with food in the first place) once every month to keep the parasites/worms at bay. Once the internal parasite/worms take over, it is almost impossible to recover (this is for both wild as well as domestic).
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Temp much lower than these can cause the fish from going off food and that's when the problems start. 4 – Quarantine: One of the most important areas in successfully keeping these fish. Most of the sick wild fish that we commonly come across are either not properly quarantined or not quarantined at all. There are three stages to proper quarantine. First stage – This happens when these fish are caught at the Amazon. It is the responsibility of the exporter to ensure that the fish are not exported immediately. A good exporter will often bring the wild caught fish to his/her farm and will nurse them back to normal health. Unfortunately, most of the fish are not quarantined by the exporter. They select the fish from the fishermen (where they are rarely fed) and are exported immediately. In most cases, the fish would not have had seen any food for days, thereby making them lose a lot of weight and eventually become sick. Second stage – When the fish arrives at the importer place/farm. They need to be quarantined for a minimum of three weeks and at times more.